Classic rain food, upgraded

Because it's been rainy, the beach-picnic menu I've been planning in my head has been forced to sit on the back burner for some time. This is pretty sad for me because, as far as seasonal foods go, I'm much more of a Summer/Spring than a Fall/Winter. I enjoy using fresh local ingredients and prefer clean, simple flavors to heavy complicated ones. I mean, I love a good stew as much as the next girl but I couldn't eat one every day. In general, heavy foods just make me feel weighted down...

On the up side, rainy days and cold weather are a great reason to get creative with soups. Soup is pretty perfect because it's so easy and versatile. It's warming but not necessarily weighting. And for rainy days in particular, the grilled cheese/tomato soup combo is always so right. But because canned Campbell's and Kraft singles no longer have the appeal they had when my granola mother wouldn't let me have "junk food," I propose an upgrade to the classic pairing:












TORTILLA SOUP WITH CHILES AND TOMATO
4 dried pasilla chiles, wiped clean, stemmed, and seeded
2 dried chiles de árbol, stemmed
1/2 lb tomatoes, quartered
1 large white onion, coarsely chopped
2 large garlic cloves, chopped
2 qt rich and flavorful chicken stock; or 5 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth diluted with 3 cups water
2 tablespoons lard or vegetable oil
1 teaspoon dried epazote or oregano, crumbled
3 to 4 cups vegetable oil for frying
12 (6- to 7-inch) corn tortillas, cut into 1-inch squares
1 (6- to 8-oz) avocado, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1/2 cup crumbled cotija cheese (also called queso añejo) or ricotta salata, crumbled (2 oz)
1/4 cup crema, or sour cream diluted with 1 Tbsp water

Toast chiles in a dry heavy skillet (not nonstick) over medium-high heat, turning with tongs, until pliable and slightly changed in color, about 30 seconds. Coarsely crumble 1 pasilla chile and set aside.
Purée tomatoes, onion, garlic, chiles de árbol (including seeds), and remaining 3 pasilla chiles with 1/2 cup stock in a blender.
Heat lard in a large heavy pot over medium heat until it shimmers, then cook purée, stirring frequently, until reduced by half and beginning to stick to pot, 15 to 20 minutes. Stir in remaining 7 1/2 cups stock, epazote, and 1 tsp salt, then simmer, uncovered, 45 minutes.
While soup simmers, heat 1 inch oil to 350°F in a deep 10-inch heavy skillet, then fry tortilla squares, a handful at a time, until golden, 30 to 45 seconds per batch. Transfer with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain and season lightly with salt.
Divide tortillas and avocado among soup bowls and ladle in soup. Sprinkle with cheese, drizzle with crema, and top with crumbled chile.












MEXICAN GRILLED CHEESE SANDWICH
1 shallot, thinly sliced
1/3 cup chopped cilantro
1 1/2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
3 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided
4 slices bread from a large round loaf
1 1/2 cups coarsely grated cotija cheese (6 oz)
1 (6- to 8-oz) avocado, cut into 1/4-inch slices
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided

Stir together shallot, cilantro, lime juice, 1 Tbsp oil, and 1/8 tsp pepper. If you have a panini press, use it.
*Recipe from Gourmet.com