KOGI! Because Everyone's Doing it

If you live in LA and you haven't heard about Kogi, you probably live in a cave suburb of the Mars district. But for that cave crowd, Kogi BBQ is a Korean taco truck that drives around the city alerting patrons to its upcoming locations via Twitter. Even an hour before the truck arrives, masses spontaneously congregate resulting in curious stares and funny questions from those not in the know. And the tacos? Fuh-get about it. They are, as Jonathan Gold says, "unmistakably Los Angeles".

Joe and I got to check it out on Tuesday when it stopped in the Village. We waited for over an hour, but that was half the fun. Standing in line made me feel connected, part of something big and exciting (and facilitated choice eavesdropping).

The menu: Korean shortribs; spicy pork; spicy chicken or tofu on corn tortillas.

Topped with shredded cabbage, scallions, soy, and sesame seeds, the tacos are sweet and sour perfection. I'd say more if it hadn't all been said before.

To find out where to hit up the Kogi truck, check out their Twitter feed .

Cobbler: Therapy for the Poor

Too many bad movies have me down. They're exhausting and soul-crushing and take so much time away from otherwise enjoyable activities. Normally, I can manage. But coupled with debilitating PMS, bad movies make Emma a dull girl. So this afternoon, I decided to be proactive...that's right, I went to FOOD for Amanda's cobbler. Amanda is the consummate Mother Goose and you can taste it in everything she bakes. Her cobbler is warm and nurturing like her hugs. It has saved me from more panic attacks than I care remember and it worked its magic again today.

On Wednesdays, Amanda works at the Santa Monica farmers market so she only uses the best of what's in season and her cobbler fillings change accordingly. Today it was pear/cranberry.


I know that $5 for cobbler seems a bit excessive to those of us who are unemployed, but I look at it this way: I could either spend $5 on cobbler or $100 on therapy. So clearly, buying cobbler saves money. Clearly.

FOOD
10571 Pico Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90064

Oh no he di'nt, the first "Bourdain Says"

I'm letting two posts stew until after I screen a few (probably bad) LAFF movies, but this one just couldn't wait.

Sometime last week Anthony Bourdain said this about Chez Panisse's Alice Waters:
"I'll tell you. Alice Waters annoys the living shit out of me. We're all in the middle of a recession, like we're all going to start buying expensive organic food and running to the green market. There's something very Khmer Rouge about Alice Waters that has become unrealistic. I mean I'm not crazy about our obsession with corn or ethanol and all that, but I'm a little uncomfortable with legislating good eating habits."

And then more recently on NPR:
"Thanks to Waters' influence, a generation of ambitious chefs now confuse process and result. Shout-outs to their sources fill their menus, and transparency has become synonymous with integrity and honesty... And more to the point: Shopping is not cooking."

I agree with parts of both, McDonalds should not be closed to save us from our bad eating habits, and Davis strawberry jam is still strawberry jam. But these statements are both so reductive that they miss the intention behind Waters' food philosophy. True, eating organic is not always an economically viable option, but for the most part eating locally should be. When you live in California, home to the garlic capital of the world, there is absolutely no reason to buy garlic shipped over from China. It's not just about supporting local farmers (that's a bonus), it's about reducing our carbon footprint. And listing where your ingredients came from makes it so that the conscious patron doesn't have to ask.

Good food is made with good ingredients and in that sense shopping IS cooking. The problem, therefore, is one of perspective. When you partition life, and see the kitchen as the only place where "cooking" happens, your food is similarly limited. It's important to recognize that on a chemical level, food eaten translates to energy and in that sense a cook's influence (and his responsibility) extends beyond the plate.

I respect Bourdain because he knows a ton about food but he's a bully. At least on the West coast, Alice Waters' positive influence has been immense. She changed the way we approach food preparation and consumption. But hers is a holistic philosophy based around the idea of a more complete wellness, and maybe we shouldn't expect someone whose counter-philosophy is "shut up and eat" to really get that.

Strawberry Coconut EXPLOSION

In honor of the great Rev. Martin Luther King Jr., Alana and I made an MLKcake (almost one too many Ks). If you said to me, "Aaron, make me the whitest (racially) cake you can think of," I'd probably make this cake. This was the first cake I've had a hand in.

We got the recipe from here after troving some food blogs. I left out the coconut pieces in the cake because it seemed like overkill. Coconut frosting, coconut topping, AND coconut pieces in the cake. Neh. This frosting is also really, really sweet, and good lord, we have way too much left over. Cut everything in half, and then, add even less sugar. The coconut milk is so sweet already that I don't think its really necessary. Emma noted while we were making it that the butter in the frosting is just for show to make the frosting more malleable. Whipped cream might be good in between the two layers, kind of like a shortcake but...actual cake. I like this texture for decorative purposes. If you're not concerned about that, then you could probably cut some of the butter too.

Other than that small stuff, this was good, good cake.

Classic rain food, upgraded

Because it's been rainy, the beach-picnic menu I've been planning in my head has been forced to sit on the back burner for some time. This is pretty sad for me because, as far as seasonal foods go, I'm much more of a Summer/Spring than a Fall/Winter. I enjoy using fresh local ingredients and prefer clean, simple flavors to heavy complicated ones. I mean, I love a good stew as much as the next girl but I couldn't eat one every day. In general, heavy foods just make me feel weighted down...

On the up side, rainy days and cold weather are a great reason to get creative with soups. Soup is pretty perfect because it's so easy and versatile. It's warming but not necessarily weighting. And for rainy days in particular, the grilled cheese/tomato soup combo is always so right. But because canned Campbell's and Kraft singles no longer have the appeal they had when my granola mother wouldn't let me have "junk food," I propose an upgrade to the classic pairing:












TORTILLA SOUP WITH CHILES AND TOMATO
4 dried pasilla chiles, wiped clean, stemmed, and seeded
2 dried chiles de árbol, stemmed
1/2 lb tomatoes, quartered
1 large white onion, coarsely chopped
2 large garlic cloves, chopped
2 qt rich and flavorful chicken stock; or 5 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth diluted with 3 cups water
2 tablespoons lard or vegetable oil
1 teaspoon dried epazote or oregano, crumbled
3 to 4 cups vegetable oil for frying
12 (6- to 7-inch) corn tortillas, cut into 1-inch squares
1 (6- to 8-oz) avocado, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1/2 cup crumbled cotija cheese (also called queso añejo) or ricotta salata, crumbled (2 oz)
1/4 cup crema, or sour cream diluted with 1 Tbsp water

Toast chiles in a dry heavy skillet (not nonstick) over medium-high heat, turning with tongs, until pliable and slightly changed in color, about 30 seconds. Coarsely crumble 1 pasilla chile and set aside.
Purée tomatoes, onion, garlic, chiles de árbol (including seeds), and remaining 3 pasilla chiles with 1/2 cup stock in a blender.
Heat lard in a large heavy pot over medium heat until it shimmers, then cook purée, stirring frequently, until reduced by half and beginning to stick to pot, 15 to 20 minutes. Stir in remaining 7 1/2 cups stock, epazote, and 1 tsp salt, then simmer, uncovered, 45 minutes.
While soup simmers, heat 1 inch oil to 350°F in a deep 10-inch heavy skillet, then fry tortilla squares, a handful at a time, until golden, 30 to 45 seconds per batch. Transfer with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain and season lightly with salt.
Divide tortillas and avocado among soup bowls and ladle in soup. Sprinkle with cheese, drizzle with crema, and top with crumbled chile.












MEXICAN GRILLED CHEESE SANDWICH
1 shallot, thinly sliced
1/3 cup chopped cilantro
1 1/2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
3 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided
4 slices bread from a large round loaf
1 1/2 cups coarsely grated cotija cheese (6 oz)
1 (6- to 8-oz) avocado, cut into 1/4-inch slices
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided

Stir together shallot, cilantro, lime juice, 1 Tbsp oil, and 1/8 tsp pepper. If you have a panini press, use it.
*Recipe from Gourmet.com

Roasted Red Pepper Hummus

Today I watched two movies, wrote (brilliant) blurbs about each for the LAFF, ran 8.5 miles, continued to refine my life philosophies in my journal, and made bomb-ass hummus and pita chips. Since I probably won this round, the consolation prize is my mama's recipe for roasted red bell pepper hummus. Boo ya, and enjoy!

2 cans garbanzo beans, drained
6 tbs. tahini
2 tsp. cumin seeds
4 tsp. ground coriander
2 tsp. salt
2 tbs. olive oil
1 jar (TJs) roasted red bell pepper, drained
4 tbs. lemon juice
2-3 cloves garlic

In a food processor, blend ingredients until smooth. Top with a sprinkle of zatar and olive oil to finish.

Steel Cut Oats

I've been reading Mark Bittman's blog daily, and I'll probably reference him regularly. He's a great journalist, food writer, and cook. I'm looking forward to reading his newest book Food Matters about food and climate change. Today's featured recipe is steel-cut oats for breakfast, a favorite of mine. These take a little longer than your humble Quaker oats, but they're way better for you and exponentially more delicious. The possibilities for toppings are nearly endless. Most mornings, I load mine up with with raisins, bananas, brown sugar, ground flax seed, and a little warm milk. It's like your dream breakfast cereal come to life with fresh ingredients: sweet, fruity, and a little nutty from the oat's natural flavor and the flax. Fresh fruit is also a nice addition when you have it. I find that raisins are a healthy, cheap mainstay for 2 bucks/bag at Trader Joe's. This is the breakfast equivalent of a steak.

The water-to-oat ratio is 4-to-1. A man-size serving is about a 1/3 cup. A two-man-size serving is 1/2 cup (if you know you've got a busy day ahead, this can tide you over until dinner) .

stuff dreams are made of

Yes, this is a hotdog coated in french fries. And yes, it's on a stick. To think that people doubt the existance of G-d when the construction of the fry-dog is so obviously of a divine nature. Or carnie. Actually, I think it's South Korean but whatev.

A gourmand breaks her silence

Joblessness has rendered me unfocused, directionless, and apathetic to food. Running is the only activity that gives my day any kind of structure and eating has become the thing I do to facilitate more running. It's been tragic. But yesterday, Aaron (the newest JEWISH addition to 415 1/2) alerted me to Gourmand syndrome and thereby prompted me to write again.

From About.com: Eating Disorders
Gourmand syndrome is a rare and benign disorder in which the main symptom is a powerful craving for fine food...The enjoyment of food in gourmand syndrome goes beyond eating. There is also a powerful appreciation for food shopping and preparation, and the process of conducting a meal takes on a new flavor as well. One might say that eating becomes the primary element of excitement in life...Pleasure is greater and health does not seem to suffer as a result. Those with gourmand syndrome seek food that enhances pleasure, and they appear to get the most possible enjoyment they can from the food they eat. In short, their awareness is heightened.

Aaron said, "That's us". And he's right. I love food and food smells, food preparation, food memories, food culture!...But being broke and humbled by unemployment makes it hard to enjoy flavor in the focused way I used to. It seems I must find a job even if it's for no reason other than to restore my appetite. ::Resolved, Emma walks off into the sunset, to the job that exists just beyond the horizon::

PORK PILLOW

Guanciale (Italian for "pillow") is the newest addition to food vocabulary. It is a kind of Italian bacon made from the jowl of a pig instead of the rib. It is much fattier (more flavorful) than normal bacon which explains why it missed my ano-radar screen but it sounds absolutely delicious; therefore, I propose seeking out this savory meat in the name of therapy and recovery.

Margy brought it to my attention with a cute annecdote about almost stealing Debbie Mazar's guanciale during dinner at Osteria Mozza but realized her "mistake" in time and was then rewarded with a "history of" lesson from Debbie's husband. If the fattier, less smoky Italian bacon had not already sparked my interest, the story of the Italian shepherds carrying around this massive chunk of pork attached to their belt with an equally sizable chunk of cheese (an early lunchable, if you will) sealed the deal with its echo of one of my favorite Simpsons annecdotes in which Abe Simpson rambles about tying an onion to his belt because it was the style at the time. Unfortunately though, I couldn't find the story actually written anywhere and the bazillion calls I made were of little help. NEVERTHELESS, I feel the humorous imagery justifies the retelling of this potentially bogus story. Guanciale, a kind of Paul Bunyan for the bacon world.

sweet memories made sweeter by pickles

Even though it ended badly, I have to admit that the year I spent at Clementine changed my life for the better. It's still hard for me to go back because of all of the memories tangled up in their signature smells and tastes. Their homemade chai smells like Amanda smiling so wide and for so long I thought her face would break and Sloppy Joes taste like the first time Patrick kissed me because Christine had made me cry. That year, the restaurant was my life and now going back feels like finding out that your parents have turned your bedroom into a gym while you were away at school. SO, when Margy said she wanted the 3-salad-combo for her birthday lunch, I opted for curb-side pickup to avoid the nostalgia (and the lunch rush).

NOW TO THE PICKLES...
Clementine serves a side of homemade pickles with every sandwich. They are my among my all time favorite foods of all time. Their watery crunch is more cucumbery than pickley, but the flavor is all pickle. Hands down, the BEST pickles I've ever had. However, because of my Clementine-flavored emotional baggage, they've been forced to take on "very rare treat" status. Today, my consumption of these deliciousnesses sparked a funny memory:

When Clementine closes before Christmas, the staff gets to take home all the unsold food that won't keep. The most coveted foods are the whole apple pies and roast chickens. They're great because they're huge and expensive and you can share them with your family. So while everyone is fighting over the biggies, Livier calls me over and uncovers the barrel of pickles she has stashed in the walk-in and generously offers to share them with me. I hastily fill the quart jar she has just handed me, and run to my car to hide my treasure. When I get home I retreat to my room and greedily eat the whole quart. Soon I feel the sickness. Unable to puke, I sit alone for hours. My insides are pickled and I don't regret it.