9.10.2009

the gold standard 9/10/09

If you haven't already, you should sign up to receive the Gold Standard newsletter now, because I won't do this every week. But since this is the first one I've written, it's extra special, and I want to share it here, where everything begins:

In Counter Intelligence, Jonathan Gold revisits Susan Feniger’s Street. In First Bite, read about Zahle in the Valley: The middle-eastern polish of Alcazar Express. In Ask Mr. Gold, Sea Cucumber, Anyone? Eat ‘em raw, or braised. Just don’t call them slugs.


After months of eager waiting, Mark Gold finally (officially) opened the doors to Eva (7458 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles), his cozy new bistro located in the former Hatfield's space this Tuesday. At the preview last Sunday, Gold delivered a simple, refined, market-driven menu as promised: burrata ravioli with summer truffles and corn milk; poached beef with cauliflower, brioche and salsa verde; Hokkaido scallops with Spanish rice, chorizo and orange. The restaurant will host true family-style dinners on Sundays, meaning the atmosphere will be casual ("like a dinner party at my house," says Gold) and the wine will be free flowing from bottles opened during the week. More details at Squid Ink.

Marche (3355 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks), formerly Max, in Sherman Oaks kicked off on Tuesday night, too. Owner Andre Guerrero, who was head chef for Max, will remain on as a partner but most of his time and attention will be given to his other restaurants BoHo in Los Angles and Oinkster in Eagle Rock. Though Marche's ambiance has maintained the richly colored palate and earnest service of Max, the similarities end there. Chef Gary Menes, who honed his skills at Palate under Octavio Becerra and has also done stints at The French Laundry and with The Patina Group, is the driving force behind the restaurant's new direction and its decidedly different menu, which will change not only seasonally, but weekly. "It’s good to long for things," says Menes, referring to the challenges and whims of seasonal ingredients. Yet, eventually, they make their way back into his dishes, when the time is right.

Syrup Desserts (611 S. Spring St.), a late night sweet spot specializing in Belgian waffles and sweet grilled cheeses, opened Downtown this week. Check their Twitter feed for daily updates on deals and specials.

URBNMKT (3415 S. Figueroa), a new breakfast, lunch and grab-and-go spot is now open near USC. Three separate counter stations for sandwiches, hot dishes, and salads, plus a mass of Trojan coeds in line at the breakfast burrito bar might make you feel like you’re in a university dining hall, but actually, you’re like, three blocks away.


The post-fire smoke cloud that's still hovering over parts of the city will no doubt be blown away by the exotic spices and music filling the air this weekend. Two cultural festivals, the L.A. Greek Fest and the Little Ethiopia Street fair, will put on proud displays of the best of their national flavors, textures and smells -- offering Angelenos the opportunity for a showcase international culinary tour, without ever leaving the city.

The LA Greek Fest returns to the Saint Sophia Cathedral for its 11th year, with guest hosts Tom Hanks and Rita Wilson, dancing zorbas and Anna Vissi, sagnaki and yes, feta fries. Though the three day celebration kicks off with a free "Dancing Zorba Night" on Friday at 5 p.m., the $5 admission fee ($4 with a coupon from their website) on Saturday and Sunday is well worth the free cooking classes, at 2 and 4 p.m. in St. Basil's Hall. The cost of admission, however, does not include food, which will be overwhelmingly abundant. Skip the formal dinners and go a la carte at one of the three food stations: the Taverna for appetizers, kalamari and loukaniko; the Greek Sports Bar for Greek sliders, baby lamb chops, and Octopodi ("morsels" of grilled octopus); the Food Court for traditional Moussaka and kebab. Or, for $25, "Zorba's Feast" includes two kebobs, Briami, moussaka, pastitsio, spanikopita, tiropita, Greek salad and bread.

If after two days of Grecian feasting you simply cannot look at another Dolmathe, or even if you can, consider making your way to South Fairfax for the 8th Annual Little Ethiopian Street Fair. From 12 p.m. to 8 p.m. on Sunday September 13, the Ethiopian restaurants numerically dominating this small section of street between Pico and Olympic open their doors wide for a proud showcase of flavors from their home country.

Though not exactly a cultural event (unless you count beach as a culture), the annual Taste of Santa Monica will feature food from Buddha's Belly, Border Grill, and Monsoon Cafe, as well as an eclectic mix of 49 other local restaurants. From 1 p.m. - 5 p.m. on Sunday, the Santa Monica Pier will buzz with live music, giveaways, and an international pizza tent (whatever that means). And extended "Sunset Happy Hours" will keep the music and festivities going until 7 p.m. Entrance costs $10 per person, children 2 - 10 are $5. Check website for more details, including information about their $65.00 all-you-can-eat pass.

For those in need of additional ethnic/regional food fests after the weekend, Chef Brandon Boudet brings a taste of Italo-Americano street foods to Dominick's (8715 Beverly Blvd., West Hollywood) and Little Dom's (2128 Hillhurst Ave., Los Feliz). Chef Boudet explains that he chose items that represent "the tradition of Italian American street food and would work well" when sibling West Hollywood and Los Feliz restaurants celebrate the Feast of San Gennaro on Tuesday, September 15 through Friday, September 18. Boudet will offer up pork braciole ($7), stiglioli (grilled steak topped with smoked mozzarella, $7), sausage and peppers sandwich ($5), roasted tomato and artichoke foccacia ($4), sausage and cavolo nero foccacia ($4), fried clams ($8), rice ball ($4), zeppole ($4), and gelato ($3) during dinner service. He's "had all of these foods in some form or fashion at festivals in New York and New Orleans," and even if the Dom's crew can't offer bright carnival attractions or dramatic religious processions, those little red and white paper boats help import the right vibe.


The new farmers' market in Los Feliz Village on Sundays from 9 a.m.-2 p.m. is more like a markette, given its diminutive scale. It can't compete with the major weekly event a few miles west, and is still smaller than even the relatively compact Atwater Village Sunday market, but neighborhood locals appear happy to have the extra option and reduced hassle.

The selection is modest -- particularly in the organic produce department -- yet covers most bases, with booths such as Rivadeneira Farms (eggs, quail eggs, mushrooms, misc. fruits and veggies), Cobblermania, Skyline Flowers, and Paddy Mac stationed in the parking lot behind the Dresden Room. The Gastrobus parks in the alley, too, and uses products directly from this market for its spontaneous brunch menu. Now that's taking the "market driven" philosophy to a whole new level.

On Saturday, September 12, Culinary Historians of Southern California will host Jonathan Gold's discussion of "The Rise of Regional Cuisines in the San Gabriel Valley" at the Mark Taper Auditorium at the Central Library. The fact that the event and the reception are free seems reason enough to combat the parking situation downtown, but if you can't make it out this weekend, Gold will be back at the library on October 29 for a conversation with former New York Times restaurant critic William Grimes, held in conjunction with the release of Grimes' new book, Appetite City.

AOC (8022 W. 3rd St., Los Angeles) continues their Flights and Bites on Monday Nights with a stop in New Zealand on Monday, September 14. Expect future winey visits to Veneto, Beirzo, and Burgundy. And as always, make reservations.

Monday, September 14, is the last day to place your Rosh Hashanah catering order at Joan's on Third (8350 W. 3rd St., Los Angeles). From matzo ball soup to oven roasted beef tenderloin with horseradish, noodle kugel to golden beet and apple salad with walnuts and goat cheese, the kosher catering menu covers all the holiday bases -- and then some.

In preparation for the upcoming New Year, Chef Jamie Cantor of Platine Cookies (10850 Washington Blvd., Culver City) has been rolling out sheets of rich cream cheese dough for rugelah, Platine's cookie of the month. Filled with apricot jam, walnuts, and Zante currants, then topped with a sprinkle of cinnamon sugar, the cookies will no doubt ensure a sweet New Year. Order online, or drop by the shop.

-Emma Courtland and Jessica Ritz, with contributions by Erinn Eichinger and Amy Scattergood

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